Whether you want your 3D models for print, games, architecture or animation. By default Blender begins with the unit system set to metric and the unit scale set to 1. On the left of the scene are the scene properties with an area for units. With all projects its a good idea to have the unit system set up before any modelling is done. I’ll be using a Prusa printer to print the model. The STL files for this case are available on GitHub at mike42/6502-computer, critique is welcome.In the following post I work through the process of modelling this piggy bank in Blender for printing on a Prusa 3D printer. If I need to make enclosures for future projects, I’ll take another look at open source parametric CAD tools such as OpenSCAD and FreeCAD, which are more targeted to this kind of work. I’m quite happy with how this turned out as my first ever 3D print. I like the idea of using heat-set inserts instead, but I don’t want to try too many new things at once, so I’ve skipped the idea for now.Īt the time of writing, I’m still waiting for some parts to assemble this computer with a power/reset button, which will be the end of the hardware side of this project. The computer’s board will be installed on standoffs, which are secured by a nut on the other side. PLA shrinks as it cools, but this aligned perfectly, which is either good luck or correct calibration. When I received the parts, I first checked that the two pieces fitted together, then placed a blank PCB over the base to check that the holes lined up. The print is black PLA, printed with fused deposition modeling, with an 0.2mm layer height and 30% infill. I exported the STL files, and sent them to a local manufacturer, since I don’t have my own 3D printer. ![]() The result was two pieces which sit together but do not attach, with rounded corners and no sharp overhangs, for ease of manufacturing. The spaces are larger than necessary, and I will try using modifiers slot the pieces together with a fixed tolerance if I need to do this again. I built the box as a square, then beveled it in wire-frame view. One challenge was rounding the corners without the two pieces intersecting. I modeled out the case as a lid and base with 3mm walls, and used boolean modifiers to cut out spaces for buttons and cables. blend files, but has less room to make undetected errors, so I’ll be using it in future. The scale is correct with both of these methods, because I can align the image and model. I imported this file into FreeCAD, then exported it to STL. KiCad can export its 3D model to a STEP file. I then added a reference image (the PNG file exported above), and scaled/moved the reference image until the cross-hairs lined up with the vertex. ![]() In Blender, I added a single vertex at the origin, then extruded it on the X axis to match the measured dimension. I then used GIMP to add cross-hairs to the centre of the mounting holes. I used Inkscape to convert from SVG to PNG. In KiCad, I added two “dimensions” to show the distance between the centre of the mounting holes, then plotted the front copper layer as an SVG. There are guides on the web about how to set this. I’ve set it to millimetres, with a scale of 0.001. This is mostly just juggling file formats, but also note that Blender works in metres by default. My first challenge was to get the PCB into Blender at the correct scale, so that I could build a model around it. Blender is not a CAD tool, but it is excellent for general-purpose 3D work, and will do just fine for this task. ![]() My PCB design files are in KiCad, and I decided to design the case in Blender, since I already know how to use it.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |